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Best Beaches of the World: Bentota Bay Beach Resort, Sri Lanka
Beach, Lagoon, River, Swimming, Diving,
Snorkelling trips, Waterskiing, Jetskiing, Tube-riding, Windsurfing,
Deep sea fishing, Canoeing & River cruises
Bentota, Sri Lanka, 64 km down from Colombo,
is the second tourist resort following Beruwala
Bay Beach, 55 km down from Colombo by the same highway, (so we
passed it few minutes ago) is the gateway to 140 km (86mile) stretch of
tropical beaches from Beruwala in western
coast to Tangalla Bay Beach in the southern
coast. The outstandingly beautiful stretch of road is one of the most
scenic routes in the island.
We just passed the raucous fish market of busy vendors with helpless
crabs & lobsters, among a huge variety of fish at Aluthgama. We passed
Toddy bars too. Toddy is a creamy white bubbling thick & smooth drink of
liquor made of coconut sap (tapped from the frond of coconut) fermented
in large clay pots-low percentage alcoholic beverage faintly
reminiscent of cider. No hurry, we can have gallons of Toddy later
today, at our leisure. Toddy galore in these towns. Cheap too. This is
the border between the Western & Southern Provinces.
Bridge over River Bentota
We cross the bridge over the River Bentota by car. The railway track of
Diesel engine powered trains shares the same bridge. Over the bridge,
over the waters of river Bentota, all of a sudden it is calm now. Did we
miss something? We try to have a glance behind the car. We travelled
from north to south over the bridge & now unlike us, the River Bentota
that was running from east to west while we crossed the bridge suddenly
changes its mind & takes a ninety degree turn. Now, the river flows
north right from the very location of the bridge itself, parallel to the
coast, for a few hundred meters, separated by the sea only by a narrow
tongue of land. Sea from the west, sea from the north-the choppy
breakers of the Indian Ocean, & calm waters of the river Bentota from
East. The narrow spit of land is beautifully sandwiched & shaded with
palm trees on both the seaward & river sides. It can be reached either
from the beach or by boat across the river: the paradise island.
The Beach
Sprawling under an endless canopy of palm trees, the beaches continue
several kilometres south from Bentota. The attractive southern end of
Bentota beach, i.e. south of the railway station, comprises a wide &
tranquil swathe of sand that's home to one of the island's finest
clusters of top-end luxury hotels, tastefully located & set at decent
intervals from one another down the coast. Some of the hotels herein
provide high quality Ayurvedic healing centres. Some of the most
sumptuous places to stay in the entire island are located in these
beaches from the resort Bentota to village Induruwa. Induruwa too has a
small cluster of places to stay on a lovely, quiet length of beach.
National Resort Complex
It was the British colonialists who first made use of the beach to build
a rest house for their officers en route form Colombo to Galle. Today
the 100 acre National Resort Complex herein is built entirely for the
foreign tourists. A gentle, leafy sprawl of hotels & guest houses along
the coast provide a full range of water sports-wind surfing,
water-skiing, deep sea fishing, diving. The beautiful calm waters of
River Bentota too offers itself ready year round for your merry making
in all sorts of water sports along with interesting boat trips up the
river. All major hotels provide diving outfits & services.
Water sports, PADI & CMAS courses
Diving the Snake, Paradise Island, Bentota (Swiss management) offers
full range of PADI & CMAS courses, plus a wide range of one-off dives at
various sites along the west coast.
Club Inter Sport of Bentota beach Hotel (PADI-registered dive
instructor) offers water skating, jetskiing, windsurfing, speed boating,
deep sea fishing.
Confifi Marina offers full range of dives & courses, snorkelling trips,
waterskiing, jet skiing, windsurfing, boat trips, tube-riding & canoeing.
Sunshine Water Sports Centre, Aluthgama offers full range of water
sports & particularly good for windsurfing & waterskiing, with training
from former Sri Lanka champions. Jet skiing, snorkelling trips, deep-sea
fishing & Bentota river cruises.
Ypsylon Dive School offers the usual range of single dives, PADI
courses, night dives, introductory "discovery" dives & wreck dives
Boat safaris in River Bentota
Boat trips along the River Bentota are quite popular. The Bentota lagoon
is the last section of the broad River Bentota, a popular spot for boat
safaris. Starting at the Bentota bridge & cruising inland, soon we will
be in the lagoon dotted with tiny islands fringed with tangled mangrove
swamps. Among aquatic birds-herons, cormorants & colourful kingfishers
- as well as water monitors & crocodiles, the boatmen ferry (Who pay the
ferryman? Allow me) us right in the thick of mangroves. The sight is
mysterious & beautiful at once, as we cruise through shaded waters
beneath huge roots. The longer the cruise, the further upriver we
cruise, the more unspoilt the scenery becomes. Longer excursion includes
side trip to coconut factories & handicraft shops. Most trips cruise for
three hours while the Dinner Cruise last 5 hours. Grilled prawns with
garlic butter, steaks, rice & curry & of course, The best dessert in the
world, curd with Kitul palm honey.
Turtle hatcheries
At the north end of Induruwa is one of the turtle hatcheries set up to
protect turtle eggs till they hatch. Turtle eggs, which would otherwise
be eaten, are bought for a few rupees each from local fishermen &
re-buried along the beach. Once hatched, the baby turtles are kept in
holding tanks. Small tanks contain hundreds of one to three-day old
turtles, as well as larger one, including an albino, kept for the
collection. In the night, you can release a three-day-old turtle into
the Indian Ocean to fend off itself. The beauty of the operation is the
beaches are guaranteed the female baby turtles released herein will find
their way back, sans GPS, in the depths of seven seas to their natal
beach ten years later to lay their own eggs. The wonders & mysteries of
our planet are endless. Let's protect it from the poachers, marauders &
mass murderers. Five of the world's seven species of marine turtle visit
Sri Lanka's beaches to nest, a rare ecological blessing. The government
support for the conservation is a far cry from an ideal conservation
project for an island that could easily be converted to the world's
prime turtle-watching destination. In buying a baby turtle (from
privately run turtle hatcheries) so that it could be released to the
ocean, your wallet would loose a couple of dollars (let me put it this
way: after all, keepers of the hatcheries too spent money buying the
eggs from the fishermen, don't they?) to an eminently worthy cause. You
would loose A Few Dollars More buying tortoise-shell ware (see, still we
aren't saving all of the turtles, still not in the ideal situation),
drums, masks & handmade lace. Lace of Portuguese origin, even 15th
century Portuguese style ladies jackets made of white lace: Kabakorottu.
That's what since15th century coastal belt generation to the generation
as my grandmother's (all of them Sinhalese in our western &
south-western coastal belt) wore in their times. My father,
Baminahennadige Donald Benedict Peiris (8th April 1930 - 24th June 2005)
of Lakshapatiya, Moratuwa too used to talk of traditions & costumes of
the western coast.
Kosgoda
Independent turtle hatcheries run by villagers & Turtle conservation
project (TCP) sponsored by UNDP
Turtle Conservation Project.
Brief Garden
Ten kilometres north of Bentota is pretty Brief Garden. It used to be
the home of landscape artist, sculptor & bon-vivant Bevis Bawa, older
brother of illustrious Geoffrey Bawa, one of the twentieth century's
foremost Asian architects whose work includes the new Parliament, Ruhunu
University & renowned top-end eco-friendly hotels,
Kandalama Hotel,
Bentota Beach Hotel etc. of the island. In 1929 Major Bevis Bawa of
British Army in Ceylon began landscaping the 5 acre garden his father
had purchased following a successful legal brief. Having cleared the
Rubber plantation, Bawa set to work creating a verdant romantic folly of
inviting alcoves, nooks & bowers & garden sculpture. Bawa continued his
masterpiece to his death in 1992. In the backdrop of undulating
landscape of paddy fields & scattered villages on a hillside, Bawa
designed a delightful series of cool shady terraces of wonderfully
composed views, designed in various moods with references to European &
Japanese style gardens, which tumble luxuriantly down the hillside below
the house. And then there are wide lawns, ponds & a hilltop lookout too.
The house itself wouldn't take a backseat to the garden. The artwork on
display is eclectic, ranging form homoerotic sculpture to a wonderful
mural of Sri Lankan life in the style of Marc Chagall. Some of the
artwork was done by Bawa himself. The mural was created by the
Australian artist Donald Friend, who hadn't intended to stay more than
six days but ended up staying in Ceylon (then name of Sri Lanka) for six
years. The fascinating collection of photographs includes a photograph
of Bevis Bawa posing with house guests Vivien Leigh (Gone with the Wind)
& Laurence Olivier (Oh! Ah!) during their filming of our Christine
Wilson's famous novel "Elephant Walk" in 1953. And Emperor Edward the
8th to the boot.
Geoffrey Bawa himself appear in avatars: here in the form no other than
God Bacchus himself, holding a birdbath shaped as a giant clam-shell,
there in the shape of water-spouting gargoyle with wild hair & blue
marble eyes. Bawa, himself was an imposing character, intellectually,
socially as well as physically. He was 6 feet 7 inches tall. That is as
tall as South African born former captain of England, fabulous Tony
Greg, the most colourful commentator in Cricket today. And impartial
too, as is the champion of champions, Illustrious Ravi Shastri of India.
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